Food in Scotland
Agacan
113 Perth Road
Dundee
Tel: 01382 644227
The rotating kebab meat in the window does not bode well for veggies, and therefore for me.
But it's during a drink in the Tay Bridge Bar - a short walk up Dundee's busy Perth Road from where we're heading for a late-night dinner - that I really get worried. When someone at our table says "WHAT? You're veggie and you're going to the AGACAN?!" as if I might be a non-swimmer about to attempt the Channel, my stomach suddenly stops rumbling.
Add to that the reason we're having pre-meal tipples - our table, booked for 9.45pm, is still not free - and grabbing the nearest meat-free takeaway seems like a good plan. Still, pessimism often produces pleasant results and hunger, when cooking smells are in the air, can easily be revived.
So, for the second time this evening, we make our way to "Zeki's" as the Agacan is more commonly known to locals, Zeki being the owner of the popular Turkish establishment. There is good news and there is bad news. The bad news is that the occupiers of our table have not finished - in fact, they've just ordered sweets. The good news is that we're getting our drinks free. We order doubles and things are suddenly looking up.
The wait also gives us a chance to browse the vivid artwork with which the walls of the tiny restaurant - there are only five tables - are covered. The primary-coloured canvases of Dundee artist David Cook are favoured, and the other main exhibitor is Zeki himself.
It's an intimate, exotic-smelling place and, if you bang elbows with someone at a neighbouring table, it only adds to the fun.
As expected, there's nothing vegetarian among the main dishes, which are largely kebab variations featuring chicken and lamb in various permutations. The starters, however, look a better bet, with everything from stuffed aubergine to hummous.
My starving dining partner, having knocked back his double gin and tonic, takes all of two seconds to decide on the "Agacan Special," a chicken dish with various trimmings. I timidly confess being veggie to the waitress, who immediately offers to bring me a selection of the starters as a main meal.
Now that we're finally seated, the service is fast and friendly, without being intrusive. The meals arrive at the same time and it even looks as though I might have got the better deal. My plate is piled high with gorgeous salad things, including the aforementioned items plus pitta bread, stuffed vine leaves and a mixed bean dish. It's every bit as good, and as filling, as it looks. The chicken disappears quickly and is judged "totally great."
By this time it's almost too late to stumble pubwards - and anyway, we're too full. This is a great place for informal dining and, if you're on the hop, the take-out selection is every bit as extensive as the sit-down menu. There's also a selection of Turkish beer.
Above all, "Zeki's" is a friendly place where even vegetarians get a warm welcome.
- Melanie Henderson
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Food in Scotland
Air Organic
36 Kelvingrove Street
Glasgow G3 7SA
Tel: 0141 564 5200
When push comes to shove, eating out doesn't get any more relaxing than this. Forget fussy, over-decorated bistros, Air Organic is blissfully and engagingly neutral. With white-washed walls, pleasantly tempered lighting and an atmosphere that exudes ambience over agro, this is no nonsense dining at its very best.
As understated on the outside as it is on the inside, you'd be forgiven for walking right past Air Organic. In fact, without really knowing the area, I did. But it's Air Organic's understated confidence that gives it the edge. With a fabulously varied, and at least partially organic, menu and faultlessly attentive service, there is little need for it to draw attention to itself with trimmings.
Built over two floors, the atmosphere varies slightly depending on whether you choose upstairs or down. The bar area below tends to be a little louder and busier, whilst upstairs remains more serene.
For a restaurant that prides itself on neutral decor, the attention to detail is immaculate. Even jugs of water come to the table iced and flavoured with fresh mint and melon.
Being lunch-time, we were required to order from the smaller menu (a la carte runs from 5pm), but there was still plenty to choose from. In fact, both menus concentrate on offering variety and diversity, incorporating dishes from B.L.Ts to Sushi.
We started with an opulent pumpkin and sweet potato soup (�2.95) and a fantastically fragrant and sticky, pork salad with mango (�4.90). To follow, the oven baked linguini with overnight tomatoes, prosciutto and basil (�7.40) came topped with mozzarella and was fresh, substantial and wholesome. The Bok Choi and Shitake noodles with soy and chilli (�6.80) was equally good, but perhaps could have come with a little more Bok Choi.
And to drink...a spectacularly fresh Selaks New Zealand Sauvignon (�13.95), packed with zesty, gooseberry fruit.
In all, a Glasgow must.
~ Matt Warren
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Food in Scotland
Alfredo's Ristorante Italiano,
109 Hanover Street,
Edinburgh
0131 220 6990
There's something about a good Italian restaurant that induces a wonderful feeling of contentment and well-being.
Maybe it's the relaxed surroundings, the delicious sauces or the satisfaction factor that comes from so much carbo-loading pasta. Whatever it is Alfredo's Ristorante Italiano in Edinburgh has it all in abundance.
On a Saturday evening it is busy and bustling despite the fact that it's located in a street with so many other pasta and pizza places it could qualify as a mini Italian quarter.
With so many alternatives so close together it is hardly surprising that Alfredo's feels the need to have a menu which is extensive to say the least. Starters range from a couple of pounds to a fiver and include a range of garlic breads, bruschetta, salads, pasta and soups.
After considering the lobster bisque I opt instead for avacado and prawn cocktail while my partner goes for tricolore avacado - a refreshing mix of colours and flavours.
The main course menu offers a selection of pizzas and pastas, most priced between �5 and �7, and some more expensive options including numerous chicken, beef and veal dishes.
We decide on the cannelloni armagnac, a lovely warming dish spiced up with brandy, and taglietelle with ham and mushrooms served in a rich creamy sauce.
The extra portion of garlic bread was completely unnecessary but delicious all the same. However it did put the kibosh on plans to raid the sweet menu which included Tiramasu, profiteroles and an assortment of ice creams.
So instead we polished off our bottle of wine, sampled a couple of speciality coffees and headed back out into the Edinburgh night feeling much happier than when we arrived.
~ by Hilary McNally
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Food in Scotland
The Anchorage Restaurant
Main Street
Tobermory
Mull
01688 302313
There are few dining experiences in life quite as satisfying as eating fresh seafood straight from the sea in a good old fashioned village restaurant just yards from the harbour from whence it came.
And particularly when the food in question is Scottish, inner Hebridean and as excellent as that served up at the Anchorage Restaurant in Tobermory, Mull.
Nestling mid-way along Tobermory's promenade-cum-Main Street, The Anchorage is as authentic a seafaring hostelry as you'll find anywhere in the islands or, indeed, the country.
And up here, businesses must become masterly chameleons so what, by day, is a bustling harbour-side cafe serving up hearty breakfasts and lunches to locals and tourists alike transforms itself by night into an elegant eaterie ready to dazzle the unsuspecting palate with as picturesque a waterside backdrop as you could hope to wish for.
Due to a prior engagement, namely the Sound Of Mull music festival, I was unable to visit in the evening but did take in lunch here on a busy Saturday.
Various starters ranging from Soup of the Day to Salmon Salad were tantalisingly available but I dived straight in at the deep end, if you'll pardon the pun and ordered the seafood salad platter.
It was a seafood lover's mouth-watering paradise, fresh as the morning's catch and included succulent prawns, roll-mop herring, baby clams and salmon on a bed of Greek lettuce, tomato and cucumber.
My companion opted for the Squat Lobster in golden breadcrumbs with Marie Rose sauce and was equally impressed and we both made a mental note to go for the fresh crab salad on our next visit.
Non-fish fans are of course catered for with a range of delicious red and white meats on offer and the out and out veggies can opt for the baked corn tacos with black-eyed beans and mushroom chilli - all for roughly the same price around the �6 to �7 mark.
Licensed, of course, the Anchorage provides a good range of beer and wine available throughout the day and evening.
And with Tobermory's late pubs the MishNish and McGochan's a few minutes stumble away whichever direction you turn you'll be sure that the Anchorage will become a big part of a great memory of an fantastic day, weekend or trip on one of Scotland's real gems, Mull.
~ Peter Murphy
(18/10/01)
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Food in Scotland
The Apartment
7-13 Barclay Place
Edinburgh
Tel: 0131 228 6456
The problem with so many restaurants is that they specialise. You can go North African, or order Chinese, you can take-out an Indian or dine French. Unfortunately, there are very few places you can choose from all of them at once. At last, with The Apartment, comes a restaurant that serves food first and specialises later. With big portions, plenty of choice and a convivial atmosphere, this is fusion dining at it's good-value best.
The Apartment opts for an irreverent menu, doing away with the formalities of starters and mains and opting instead for ranges entitled 'Chunky Health Lines', 'Other things', 'Fish Things' and 'Penne Pasta'. And who cares? If you want a starter, you can share a main dish and if you want a main course that's half 'Fish Thing', and half 'Penne Pasta', you can share several.
In that sense, it's a clever menu, breaking down formality, encouraging people to share and, perhaps most importantly for their accountant, packing the place to bursting every single night.
Intrigued by what a Chunky Healthy Line might be, we decided to order several. To begin with, we opted to share a fabulously fresh and fruity Chicken and Apricot Line with a Piquant Peanut, Garlic and Green Chilli Dressing (�8.35). Summery, upbeat and served on a plate you could go to sea on, things were looking good for the CHLs.
Next up, I went with the North African Marinated Spicy Lamb Balls, Merguez and Grilled Basil-Wrapped Goat's Cheese (�8.25). The lamb was rich, the Merguez fresh and spicy and the goat's cheese beautifully balanced by the fresh basil. Served with pitta bread filled with their own apple, beetroot and lentil coleslaw, the dish was well garnished and there wasn't much need for the giant bowl of garlic fries I'd ordered.
Going further east, my girlfriend pitched for the fantastic Chinese Marinated Fillet of Beef, with Potato and Garlic Clove (�8.45), which effortlessly combined the richness of the beef with the pizzaz of far eastern spice.
With other options running from Black Peppered Rib-Eye Steak and Fries (�8.90) through Seared Tuna with a Coriander, Lime Zest and Coconut Milk Marinade (�8.90) to Penne with Serrano Ham and Sundried Tomatoes with Fresh Basil and Mozzarella (�5.70), The Apartment fuses enough ingredients to keep just about anyone happy.
~ Matt Warren
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Food in Scotland
Restaurant Andrew Fairlie
Gleneagles Hotel
Auchterarder
Perthshire
01764 694267
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The name Gleneagles has been synonymous with a luxury lifestyle since the hotel opened in 1924, described at the time as "a Riviera in the Highlands." This grand hotel now offers the ultimate in fine dining with the opening of Andrew Fairlie at Gleneagles.
This gourmet restaurant, open to non-residents as well as hotel guests, is run by the eponymous award-winning young chef who has created a most original menu blending the very best of classic Scottish and French cuisine.
From the moment you step into the "secret" cocktail bar adjoining the restaurant, you know this is going to be a very stylish experience. In my little black lace number, with a touch of diamante jewellery and my partner showing off his new velvet suit and DKNY silk tie, we felt suitably dressed for the occasion, surrounded by a romantic, dark interior design, featuring rather theatrical drapes with a private gallery of contemporary portraits and still life, by Archie Forrest, on the walls.
The elegant young staff, (with shirts courtesy of Mr Pink), greeted us warmly and offered a flute of ice-cold champagne as we perused the leather-bound menu. There is the chef's five course speciality menu degustation, or a la carte, featuring a choice of eight dishes from which to select a starter and/or fish course and then a selection of eight main course dishes. The emphasis is on seafood and fresh local produce, the poetic descriptions so inspiring in themselves it is almost impossible to choose between them.
I opt for grilled scallop and poached oyster salad, which is tender and delicate, beautifully arranged around the plate with a spicy pimento puree sauce. I also sample my partner's ravioli of summer truffle, that rare Rolls Royce of the fungi family, with its rich pungent flavour, softened with an accompanying white bean veloute. We then both selected the home smoked lobster, Andrew Fairlie's renowned signature dish which deserves a Michelin award all by itself.
The empty lobster shells are smoked over Auchentoshan whisky barrels for 12 hours and are then filled with the sliced lobster meat and roasted in a hot oven for about five minutes with melted butter and lime juice. The result is a most unusual but sensational melt in the mouth creation, with a soft smoky aftertaste.
While savouring each course we sipped a smooth, red Burgundy, which added a perfect balance of soft plummy fruits to the delicate flavours of the seafood, herbs and spices.
I then moved on to a thick fillet of arkaig char, a flaky white salmon-style fish, which sat on a large, flat, black cep nest, while my partner selected steamed halibut on a bed of shellfish risotto. In both dishes the fish was perfectly cooked and served with an imaginative combination and contrast of texture and colour.
And to follow? The choice of passion fruit tart, mille feuille, or hot chocolate pudding (a dish specially prepared in 25 minutes), was all too tempting. We decided however to share a platter of French farmhouse cheese, which is flown in each week from a speciality shop in Paris, Jacques Vernier.
The waiter was in his element as he explained where each soft, mild, melting or mature cheese came from, which region, valley or hill the goat or cow grazed on. Served with crisp sesame crackers this was mouthwateringly good and the perfect end to an absolutely fabulous meal.
Andrew Fairlie enjoyed a brilliant apprenticeship, becoming the first recipient of the coveted Roux scholarship, training under the great French chef, Michel Guerard. He worked in Paris at the Hotel de Crillon, the five star Royal Scotsman train and the Ritz in London. He was then invited to become executive chef at One Devonshire Gardens in Glasgow, where he was awarded a Michelin star, which he retained for five years.
He arrives at Gleneagles garlanded with numerous awards for his creativity in the kitchen. To experience dinner at his new restaurant is something very special and the perfect location for a birthday or anniversary, so book now for that important date. Apart from the most exquisite cuisine, supremely prepared and served on Limoges porcelain, it is the Parisian style, personal, friendly service and sheer glamour of the ambience which will ensure you will wish to return to taste it all again.
Complete dinner menu from �55.00 per person
~ Vivien Devlin
(22/11/01)
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Food in Scotland
Peter Murphy heads North and samples somes Highland hospitality.
The Highlands and Islands of Scotland are beautiful at any time of year but autumn brings its own spectacular attractions with a riot of changing colours.
Even when the temperature has started to drop the rugged north and west is still a popular haunt with visitors and one place that is guaranteed to be on any itinerary is the legendary island of Skye. The recently built bridge at Kyle of Lochalsh is certainly the surest way of getting to Skye but the most traditional, and romantic, route is by ferry from Mallaig to Armadale.
The Ardvasar Hotel and Restaurant in Armadale, therefore, is perfectly placed and is the first port of call for those straight off the ferry and in search of the best that Skye has to offer. A popular stopping off point for those planning to travel further up to Portree and Dunvegan, the Ardvasar enjoys fantastic views over the Sound of Sleat to the mountains of Knoydart.
The restaurant offers an appetising � la carte menu featuring such delights as fresh Sleat potted crab with avocado mousse and baked local scallops with bacon and grape au gratin followed by succulent desserts such as chocolate mousse layer cake with blueberry sauce.
Starters including homemade soup of the day and smoked salmon or salmon mousse come in at around �3-�4. The menu changes daily and the Ardvasar's specialities like herb crunch chicken supreme in lemon and butter sauce, the grilled sirloin or fried herring are all well worth sampling. In all a great three-course meal can be enjoyed for under �15 per person on average and it is worth booking ahead particularly in summer.
Good wholesome bar food is also available with basket meals such as chicken, cod and scampi, all with chips and salad, varying from around �3.50 to �7. And as the only pub in the village, the place really comes alive in the evenings with a mixed clientele of locals, tourists and students from Sabhal Mor Ostaig, the local Gaelic college.
So you can wash your meal down with some fine local ale and, if your lucky, you'll be accompanied by the sound of the fiddle! And of course, the hotel itself is a 3-star establishment with an eye on traditional Highland hospitality and prices for doubles, including breakfast, range from �70 to �80 pounds with singles around �40.
Ardvasar Hotel and Restaurant
Ardvasar Sleat
Isle of Skye
SCOTLAND
IV45 8RS
Telephone:(01471)844223
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The Old Armoury Restaurant
The Old Armoury Restaurant
Armoury Road
Pitlochry
01796 474281
On the narrow road leading to the famous Pitlochry Dam and salmon ladder at Loch Faskally you will find The Old Armoury Restaurant in a quiet spot which seems many miles away from the town itself.
The building is similar to an old stables block with a small courtyard area out front and large windows which allow diners to look out onto the pleasant surroundings.
Inside the restaurant is just as idyllic with stone walls, large fireplaces and wooden floors throughout.
Although it is quite a big restaurant the arrangement of the tables into separate seating areas gives it quite an intimate atmosphere especially if you visit at night and dine by candlelight.
The a la carte menu offers around ten different dishes from soup of the day to Thai fishcakes set on salad leaves, served with sweet chilli sauce.
There are also exciting combinations like terrine of Scottish cheeses, potato and onion encased in bacon with a chive and basil pesto and Highland haggis wrapped in smoked wild Rannoch venison served with traditional "chappit neeps and tatties" with a whisky and onion gravy.
We decided to go for the New Zealand green lipped mussels with a light topping of cheese, dressed with a light garlic and white wine sauce (�4.95) and smoked salmon served on mixed salad leaves with a sundried tomato and caper dressing (�4.95).
Both dishes were made with delicious and very fresh ingredients combining to give interesting taste combinations and were just right as appetizers for the main course.
The choice of main course is just as challenging as the starters with traditional Scottish dishes like venison, Tay salmon, lamb, beef and pheasant spiced up with interesting accompaniments and sauces.
The Cajun fillet of Tay salmon on a bed of courgette and bok choy with angel hair linguine, accompanied by chilli salsa with a lime and olive butter was very tempting while breast of Highland pheasant stuffed with Scots white pudding, wrapped in prosciutto set on a compote of red cabbage and pinenuts and courgette, surrounded by a rich forest berry jus and saut�ed potatoes sounded just as mouth watering.
However on the night we settled for the medallions of wild Perthshire venison, flame seared and set on a caramelised onion and potato mash, with roasted capsicum, spinach and mushrooms, enhanced with a rowanberry and claret jus (�12.95) and the timbale of wild mushroom risotto, wilted spinach and roast capsicum on an aubergine and sundried tomato rosti, topped with grilled goats cheese, surrounded by a roast garlic and pinenut salsa (�9.95).
We were not disappointed with our choices which were again bursting with flavour, freshness and inventiveness making seemingly simple ingredients a really enjoyable and delicious meal.
For me The Old Armoury has it all, a lovely setting, delicious food, attentive service and a very reasonably priced menu.
The Old Armoury also serves a set lunch and pre-theatre menu costing �11.95 for two courses and �14.95 for three. You can also choose from a light meal selection or just pop in for a sandwich and cake during the afternoon.
- by Lorraine Wakefield
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