The Best Laid Plans
The methods used to outwit the gaugers were elaborate and various - often necessitating hours of careful planning, but sometimes causing the smugglers to call up their best improvisational skills. And distilling was a way of life that tended to make those skills very refined indeed.
Here are some ingenious examples:
A Bit of Black Magic
In the valley of Strathmore in the 1820s, a group of smugglers, spurred on by an old-time hoodwinker, Sandy McGregor, got the better of the local Supervisor of Excise at Coupar Angus, Joseph Henderson, with a particularly cunning ploy. Hearing that the gaugers were hot on the trail of their convoy, the smugglers did a bit of hasty dealing and dressing up in the village of Ardblair.
The waiting gaugers were treated to a highly extravagant - but doggedly sombre - funeral procession, complete with black-draped hearse, black horses, men in black armbands and women in mourning clothes. No prizes for guessing what was in the hearse! What could the gaugers do but doff their hats in respect?
Apparently the episode led to a nice sideline for the undertaker at Ardblair - and the gaugers were none the wiser.
Feverish Trick
A lady distiller from Auchterhouse, five miles north-west of Dundee, remembers how she helped to get her father out of a tight spot when a group of gaugers turned up out of the blue. She was seven or eight and ill in bed with the flu and there was four ankers of the peatreak in the house, as well as a bag of malt ready for the still.
When the Excisemen arrived from over the hills, her father quickly lifted the mattress from the bed, put the evidence in the bed and put the mattress back on top. The little girl was placed back on top and told what to do.
When the door burst open, all the gaugers could see was a concerned mother and father leaning over their sick child When they inquired about her health they were told she had a terrible fever. The cunning father even put one gauger's hand over his daughter's hot brow. The preventive officer couldn't get out of the house quick enough!
Legends
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The TravelScotland Selection: Best Edinburgh Caffs
Spoon
Location: 15 Blackfrairs Street
Phone: 0131 556 6922
Opinion: Great cafe oozing a modern appeal. Opened doors for business 5+ years back. Interesting use of mirrors on the wall. Great coffee and excellent snacks. Good place to chill out over a cup of coffee. Open 6 days a week Mon-Sat 9am-5pm. Closed Sun.
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Cafe Renroc
Location: 91 Montgomery Street
Phone: 0131 556 0432
Opinion:Cafe Renoc is a place oozing the enthusiasm and friendly warmth of its owners Billy and Jane Ross. Excellent food and friendly personalized service. Stylish and airy upstairs with a traditional bistro-style basement. Menu covers an extensive range of cuisines. There is also a treatment/massage room available in the basement. Open 7 days a week 8am-9pm.
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Blue Moon Cafe
Location: 1 Barony Street
Phone: 0131 557 0911
Opinion: Blue Moon cafe, the 20 year old bar/bistro, is one of the oldest gay-friendly cafes in Edinburgh. Straight-friendly too. A fab place to hang out. Friendly waiters and waitresses. Menu is concentrated along the basic pub fare, but really good. Informal vibe and a wide selection of wines. Open 7 days a week: 11am-11pm. Serves food all day till 10pm and the bar is on till 11pm.
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Luca's
Location: 16 Morningside Road
Phone: 0131 446 0233
Opinion: A cool place selling the succulent Luca's ice creams along with tasty snacks and light meals. This is the in town version of the ice cream place in Musselburgh. The place is both economical and pleasant. Open 7 days a week 9am-10pm.
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Sprio
Location: 37 St Stephen Street
Phone: 0131 226 7533
Opinion: A cafe joint, which opened its doors in 2006, oozes a strong Italian flavor. The place may be small with only a few tables available but you can take away. The place serves tasty cakes and the espresso here is just great. Open 7 days a week: Mon-Sat 8.45am-5.30pm, Sun 10am-5.30pm.
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Monster Mash
Location: 4 Forrest Road & 47 Thistle Street
Phone: 0131 225 7069 & 0131 225 5782 respectively
Opinion: An awesome place designed in the retro style. Good food, top notch service and value for money. Huge helpings and good puds. Everything evoking a nostalgia of the classic good old times. There are some vegetarian options available for the veggies. An altogether good place to go to enjoy yourself and enjoy some great food. Open 7 days a week: Mon-Sat 8.45am-5.30pm, Sun 10am-5.30pm.
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Always Sunday
Location: 170 High Street
Phone: 0131 662 0667
Opinion: A sunny spot in the heart of Edinburgh. Contemporary decor with wooden flooring and white silvery sailboards on the ceiling. Deli style counter. The place serves fresh and wholesome food. Home baking. Open 7 days a week: 8am-6pm, Sat-Sun from 9am.
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Cafe Truva
Location: 77 The Shore, Leith
Phone: 0131 554 5502
Opinion: A pleasing Turkish Cafe, serving good strong coffee and Turkish/ Mediterranean cuisines, located on the Leith waterfront. Ambiance pepped up with Turkish hangings and photo's of old Leith on the terracotta walls. Good food and a genuinely friendly service. Open 7 days a week: 9am-6.30pm.
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Diner 7
Location: Commercial Street
Phone: 0131 553 0624
Opinion: A cozy local favorite on the shore in Leith. The place is decked with leather booths and a distinct friendly feel. Menu covers the regular burger, steaks and char grill section along with other unusual yet popular cuisines. Attention to detail on everything from cooking to presentation of dishes. Open 7 days a week: Mon-Sun 10am-10.30pm.
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Kebab Mahal
Location: 7 Nicholson Square
Phone:
Opinion: Authentic Indian cafe serving loyal customers since 1979. With a huge fanfare. Serves good vegetable biriyani, curries and sweetmeats. Signature: Tandoori dishes including mouthwatering kebabs. No alcohol allowed. Open 7 days a week 12noon-12midnight (2am Fri/Sat). Prayers on Fri (1-2pm).
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The TravelScotland Selection: Best Edinburgh Burger & Steak Places
Edinburgh has some of the Best Burger and Steak places in Scotland. We have included some of the very n Edinburgh.
Champany's
Location: Linlithgow, West Lothian
Phone: 01506 834532
Opinion: Award winning restaurant serving plate-licking good Angus Beef. Huge helpings. Top class service. Great wine list. Extensive menu. Dishes made from the finest produce. Seafood is fresh from their own seawater pool. The Chop and Ale house offers less formal dining experience. Closed Sun. Lunch (not Sat) and LO 10pm.
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Bell's Diner
Location: 7 St Stephen Street, Stockbridge
Phone: 0131 225 8116
Opinion: A petite and fine burger joint boasting a fine legacy of over 30+ years. Huge juicy burgers and steaks. With a steadily growing fanfare including many locals. A good deal for veggies too. The place has the most superb veggie burger in the whole of Edinburgh. Open Sun-Fri 6-10.30pm, Sat 12noon-10.30pm.
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Buffalo Grill
Location: 12-14 Chapel Street & 1 Raeburn Place, Stockbridge
Phone: 0131 667 7427 & 0131 332 3846 respectively
Opinion: Fantastic place serving Burgers and Steaks for the populace of Edinburgh for the past 25+ years. The place has built its reputation for steaks but serves excellent Mexican and Southern US Variations. Generous portions. The place has many options available for veggies also. Usually crowded with loyal patrons, so book in advance to avoid disappointing waits. BYOB, Lunch Mon-Fri, LO 10.15pm (Sun 10pm).
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Smoke Stack
Location: 53-55 Broughton Street
Phone: 0131 556 6032
Opinion:A hep place serving loads of burgers and steaks. From the stable of those who own 'The Basement'. Stylish atmosphere oozing a relaxed ambiance. Extensive menu covering salmon, tuna, corn, veggie etc apart from beef. Great service. Lunch Mon-Sat, dinner 7 days, LO 10.30pm.
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Wannaburger
Location: 217 High Street & 7 Queensferry Street
Phone: 0131 225 8770 & 0131 220 0036 respectively
Opinion:Tastefully done gastro burger joint oozing a friendly laid back atmosphere. Owned by the same people as Cambridge Bar. No-nonsense place concentrating exclusive on gourmet burgers and shakes made from the freshest produce. Burgers come in huge variety with vegetarian selection and numerous toppings. Open 7 days a week. LO 9.30pm.
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The TravelScotland Selection: Best Edinburgh Takeaway Places
Appetite
Location: 42 Howe Street
Phone : 0131 225 3711
Opinion: Honored as one of the "Best Places To Eat In Edinburgh", Appetite offers delicious home-made food which is ideal for takeaways. The restaurant also has a renowned reputation as the premier canapé specialist in Edinburgh . Salads, daily soups, great vegetarian dishes, quiche and pizza are some of the highlights in their superb menu selection. None beats Appetite in the Stockbridge quarter.Mon-Fri 8.30am -4pm
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Anima
Location: 11 Henderson Row
Phone : 0131 558 2918
Opinion: Anima is one of the best places that gives you a sample taste of the Real Italy. A hot 'n' cold getaway with excellent service which comes cheap as well. Celebrated for its lip-smacking pizzas, fresh pastas, ciabatta, etc. ,the menu offers all the favorite Italian classics. 7 days.Lunch & LO 10pm (11pm weekends ). Closed Sun
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G&T (Glass & Thompson)
Location: 2 Dundas Street
Phone : 0131 557 0909
Opinion: A great delivery and takeaway place for sandwiches, fine cakes and rolls. Smart and busy restaurant with top quality food that will tickle your taste-buds. Great food to takeaway to office, homes, picnics, parties and gardens. What's more, from the small yet well-maintained terrace of G&T you can gaze at happening Edinburgh .Mon-Sat 8am-5.45pm, Sun 10.30am-4.15pm.
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The Manna House
Location: 22 Easter Road
Phone : 0131 652 2349
Opinion: Lots of cakes, pastries and desserts. Takeaway home-Jams, Honey and even Scottish cheeses.The produce is sourced with the finest Scottish ingredients and absolutely no chemicals are used in their bakery items.Ever-changing menus and innovative hot meals are a specialty. 8am-7pm (Sat 6 pm). Closed Sun.
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Embo
Location: 29 Haddington Place
Phone : 0131 652 3880
Opinion: Embo has everything a cafe needs-from an exoctic menu to enthusiastic and polite staff.Thoughtful catering with a vertiginous selection of extra ingredients available at the best possible prices. Worth popping by, if you want to have a taste of some local foodies. Mon-Fri 8am-4pm, from 9am on Sat.
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The Globe
Location: 42 Broughton Street
Phone : 0131 558 3837
Opinion: You can choose from a myriad of sandwiches and rolls at this restaurant. The Globe proudly has its own branches, one at the Henderson Row, the best of its kind for an energizing breakfast (Open on Sun) and others at the Bernard Street, Leith and Thistle Street. The Globe , offering excellent service along with its branches will make people more than happy for many years to come.
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Eastern Spices
Location : 2 Canonmills
Phone : 0131 558 3609
Opinion: Lip-smacking Indian menu's with one of the fastest home-deliveries in town. Ideal, for those who love Indian takeaways. Typical eastern meals like pakora to pasanda. You can expect a good quality takeaway feast from here. Try the chicken korma, which takes away most of the praise at the restaurant. 5-11.30pm.7 days.
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L'Alba D'Oro
Location : 5-11 Henderson Row
Phone : 0131 557 2580
Opinion: They grabbed the headlines with their mouth-watering fish supper and then consequently for their famous fish 'n' chips. L'Alba D'Oro is better than most of the takeaway places at Edinburgh. With a taste which is explosive for all the right reasons, L'Alba D'Oro offers high quality food and service as ever.
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Juice Monkeys
Location : Clerk Street
Phone : 0131 667 4450
Opinion: A well-known place to go to for fresh fruit smoothies, fruit salads, paninis, sandwiches and cakes. A takeaway highly recommended for its choicest fruit drinks,sumptuous juices and tasty breakfasts. Open early.7 days.8am-8pm (Sun 9am-8pm).
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Hula
Location: 103 West Bow
Phone :
Opinion: A juice-bar with a relaxing yet lively atmosphere. Situated at the end of Victoria Street, the Hula is an archetypal takeaway and sit-in.Usual listings on the menu, including bagles and other snacks.7 days 8am-8pm (from 10am weekends)
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Jaspers
Location: Grove Street
Phone : 0131 229 8944
Opinion: A little home-spun café and takeaway swaddled on Grove Street.Thw softly spoken cafe is tumid with delicious tidbits. Jaspers is easy to miss out but is worth the search! Luscious menu with a plethora of choices.Contemporary omelette you don't get anywhere else. 7.30am- 3pm (Sat 8.30am). Closed Sun.
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Ndebele
Location: 59 Home Street, Tollcross
Phone : 0131 221 1141
Opinion: Situated near the Kings Theatre, Ndebele celebrates South Africa! The takeaway deli with the contemporary African taste and attitude, provides food for any occasion. What glistens the little gem is its famous soups which come along with cornbread. 7 days 9.15am-6pm, Sun 12noon-5pm
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The Travel Scotland Selection: Best Edinburgh Fish 'N' Chips
Edinburgh is a city with a number of great Fish 'N' Chips places. We have put together a list of the very best among them for you.
L'Alba D'oro
Location: Henderson Row
Phone: 0131 557 2580
Opinion: Award winning fish and chips shop in Edinburgh. Established in 1975. Menu boasting a large selection of deep-fried stuff both veg and non. Great wine selection, Lucas ice cream. Their Italian take-away Anima is located next door. Open till 11pm (12midnight weekends).
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The Rapido
Location: 79 Broughton Street
Phone: 0131 556 2041
Opinion: Traditional place specializing in fish n chips. Great food and a hot favourite with locals. Popular with late nighters. Good wine list. Ambiance is cozy and cool. Service is also good. Open till 1.30am (3.30am Fri-Sat)
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The Deep Sea
Location: Leith Walk
Phone: 0131 557 9276
Opinion:No-nonsense place selling great fish n chips. Opposite the Playhouse Theatre. Minimal decor and no seating. Open late through the night. Fresh food. Traditional menu. Open 2am, 3am Fri-Sat.
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Caffe Piccante
Location: 19 Broughton Street
Phone: 0131 478 7884
Opinion: A takeaway cafe in Midlothian. A good place with a traditional menu. Good food. Open till 2am and 3am weekends.
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The TravelScotland Selection: Best Edinburgh Hotels
Ibis
Location: Hunter Square
Phone: 0131 240 7000 (Late Deals and Special Rates: 0870 735 0296/+44 161 831 3753 (International))
Opinion: The first in Scotland of the Euro budget chain, the other one is in Glasgow. Dead central. Serviceable and efficiency. A great bet for holidaymakers on a sightseeing trip.
Links: Price comparison Engine for Ibis
Apex European
Location: 90 Haymarket Terrace
Phone: 0131 474 3456 (Late Deals and Special Rates: 0870 735 0296/+44 161 831 3753 (International))
Opinion: Bedbox version from Apex hotels. Is a fine bet and value for money. Great location in the city centre. In the top 5 of Green Tourism Hotels 07 UK.
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Holiday Inn Express
Location: 16 Picardy Place
Phone: 0131 558 2300/ 0800 434040 (Late Deals and Special Rates: 0870 735 0296/+44 161 831 3753 (International))
Opinion: Conveniently located opposite the Playhouse Theatre. A string of New Town houses joined together. Expect the same standard in all the rooms both double and single. Good Bar. The area has some good restaurants. 3 others in town.
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Novotel Edinburgh Centre
Location: 80 Lauriston Place
Phone: 0131 656 3500 (Late Deals and Special Rates: 0870 735 0296/+44 161 831 3753 (International))
Opinion: Oozing contemporary feel. Recently build near University and Tollcross. Functional. Leisure: small pool, bar and brasserie. Good place to stay if you are on a budget.
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Grassmarket Hotel
Location: 94-96 Grassmarket
Phone: 0131 220 2299 (Late Deals and Special Rates: 0870 735 0296/+44 161 831 3753 (International))
Opinion: Basic and ideal for the price-wise. Located next to Biddy Mulligan's (open till 1 am). A place for the party-animal, business travelers or stags on a budget.
Links: Online Booking at Grassmarket Hotel
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Tailors Hall
Location: Cowgate
Phone: 0131 622 6800 (Late Deals and Special Rates: 0870 735 0296/+44 161 831 3753 (International))
Opinion: A lively young thing kind of hotel. Central in the happening Cowgate area and above the fab 3 Sisters Pub. 4 bars to pick from (open till 1 am). The best rooms are the ones not above the huge courtyard.
Links: Online Booking at Tailors Hall
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Travel Lodge
Location: 33 St Mary's Street (Late Deals and Special Rates: 0870 735 0296/+44 161 831 3753 (International))
Phone: 0131 557 6281/ 08700 850 950 (Late Deals and Special Rates: 0870 735 0296/+44 161 831 3753 (International))
Opinion: Expect the usual formulaic facilities. Economical. Ideally located near the Royal Mile and Cowgate. A proper base to explore Edinburgh's nightlife.
Links: Price comparison Engine for Travel Lodge
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Best Edinburgh Bistros & Brasseries - Travel Scotland
Best Edinburgh Bistros & Brasseries - We have for you a list of the Best Bistros & Brasseries in Edinburgh.
Skippers
Location: 1a Dock Place; corner of Leithoff Comercial Rd by the docks
Phone: 0131 554 1018
Opinion: A fine seafood bistro in town. Leith's original with 25 years of service. The menu is heavily accented by seafood but with vegan and meat selections as well. Very quayside with a friendly and intimate decor. Daily new menu. Thoughtful wine list. Lunch & dinner 7 days, LO 10pm.
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First Coast
Location: 99 Dalry Road
Phone: 0131 313 4404
Opinion: Quality bistro on the west of town. Very urban place. Food is good: simply awesome. No-nonsense menu with a fine list of choices; regularly updated. An altogether irresistible place to be. Mon-Sat lunch & LO 10.30pm.
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Urban Angel
Location: 121 Hanover Street
Phone: 0131 225 6215
Opinion: A basement place for the urban foodies. Relaxed and contemporary decor. Great value for money. Winner of 'budget restaurant of the year 2006/2007' The List food and drinks guide. Emphasis on organic and fresh produce.
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Home Bistro
Location: 41 West Nicolson Street
Phone: 0131 667 7010
Opinion: A homely bistro. Cozy and welcoming ambiance: living room feel. Dedicated to traditional homely Scottish cuisines. The menu would leave you spoilt for choices. Chef Richard Logan works his magic with ingredients creating some of the best modern and traditional British grubs. Great value and fresh simple dishes. Lunch Mon-Fri, dinner Tue-Sat.
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Blue Bar Cafe
Location: Cambridge Street; on the west end
Phone: 0131 221 1222
Opinion: Contemporary Edinburgh restaurant with a more informal menu. A sibling of The Atrium. In the heart of the financial district side-by-side with the Usher hall, the Traverse and Lyceum Theatres. Drop in anytime to feel its intimate, warm and comfortable decor. A fine west-end entertainment hub. 12noon-3pm, 6pm-10.30pm daily. Bar to midnight (1am Sat). Closed Sun.
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The Apartment
Location: 7-13 Barclay Place
Phone: 0131 228 6456
Opinion: Just up the road from Kings Theatre. A trendy spot for diners. Decor is modern and sensible. The first of Malcom Innes fab eat-outs. Good salads, fine food and huge helpings. Menu defined along the lines of the chunky-healthy categories. 7 days dinner; LO 11pm. Lunch Sat/Sun only. Best to do an advance booking.
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The Outsider
Location: 15 George IV Bridge
Phone: 0131 226 3131
Opinion: Another one from the Malcom Innes; a sister of 'The Apartment'. Their hallmark eat-out oozing a sexy, contemporary feel; good value for money. Basic design with a great view of the castle. Signature dishes: grilled baby squid, prawns and pork. Try the contrasting dishes that add spice to the menu. Pricing is light on the purse. Sizable helpings. 7 days, lunch & LO 10.30pm.
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Herbe Bistro
Location: 44-46 George IV Bridge
Phone: 0131 226 3269
Opinion: Purveyors of modern, fresh gourmet food suiting different tastes and budgets. Basement place - spacious and calm decor. Favored spot by diners. Excellent value and spot-on be it food or service. A no-nonsense place to go for an eat-out. Lunch & LO 9.45pm. Sun closed.
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North Bridge
Location: 20 North Bridge
Phone: 0131 622 2900
Opinion: The bar and brasserie of The Scotsman Hotel. A capital place catering to Edinburgh's elite. Decor is essentially Victorian with dramatic interiors and a fine mix of classic and contemporary. The restaurant is guided by expert Chef Geoff Balharrie. Exemplary brasserie-type menu with seasonal twists; heavily accented with modern Scottish selections. 7 days, all day LO 10pm/10.30pm. Bar midnight.
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Howie's Bruntsfield
Location: 208 Bruntsfield Place
Phone: 0131 221 1777
Opinion: One of the four eat-outs in Edinburgh by the group. Oozing a smart contemporary decor and a hot-favorite with diners. One of the best in this street. Value for money, unpretentious and serving good Scottish food. 7 days, Lunch 12pm-2.30pm, Dinner 6pm-10pm, Brunch 10am-4pm (Sat-Sun).
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Howie's Waterloo
Location: 29 Waterloo Place, East end of Princes St; 5 mins from Wavery Station
Phone: 0131 556 5766
Opinion: Within a 200 year old lofty Georgian building. Grade 'A' listed. Expect the usual value for money and good food. No-fuss formula with impeccable flair of service. Great value lunch and dinner. Open 7 days a week. Lunch 12pm-
2.30pm (Sun-Fri), Sat lunch 12pm-3pm, Dinner 5.30pm-10pm.
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Sweet Melinda's
Location: 11 Roseneath Street
Phone: 0131 229 7953
Opinion: A hot favorite with locals and city-folks. 10+ years of service. Menu draws heavily on seafood and game. The best fish from Eddie's seafood market next door is handpicked every morning. Home-made organic bread and fresh produce. Emphasis on quality rather than buzz. Everything prepared from scratch. Good wine list. Lunch & LO 10pm. Mon no lunch; Sun closed.
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Shapes
Location: Bankhead Avenue, Sighthill
Phone: 0131 453 2666
Opinion: This stunning restaurant opened its doors in 2001. Run by the furniture and auction house, which also goes by the same name. This 100 seater was once the old works canteen and garage. Italian marble floors, gorgeous linen, gilt framed mirrors and candlelight create an ambiance of opulence and poise. Extensive menu and good wine list. Mon-Fri 9am-5pm. Sat lunch until 2pm, dinner 7pm-9.30pm.
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Blonde
Location: 75 St Leonard's Street
Phone: 0131 668 2917
Opinion: A pretty place on the South Side. Charming neighborhood restaurant: informal, relaxing, friendly and at the same time sophisticated. Good service. Decor along the lines of an informal Southside apartment. Good menu, reasonably priced food; fine wine list. Blonde rooms. Lunch (not Mon) & LO 10pm. 7 days.
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Stockbridge Restaurant
Location: 54 St Stephen Street
Phone: 0131 226 6766
Opinion: Frontline place. Food is finger-licking-ly good, contemporary European using fine Scottish ingredients. Proprietor/ Chef Jason Gallagher's culinary and management skills have won accolades for the place. Highlights: pastries and Aberdeen Angus. A reliable place with carefully sourced ingredients. Generous portions served; value for money. Intimate ambiance good for a deux; so take someone good there. Lunch Wed-Fri, dinner Tue-Sun. LO 9.30pm.
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Iglu
Location: 2b Jamaica Street
Phone: 0131 476 5333
Opinion: A small upstairs bistro, tucked just off Howe Street, above the New Town bar. Winner of many awards and recognition; latest: Michelin Guide recommendation. Food prepared from locally procured ingredients. Organic and tasty selections. A favorite spot for foodies. Signature dish: Scottish meat delicacies. Modest bar menu. Not a good option for veggies. Book beforehand. Lunch: Fri-Sun, dinner 7 days. LO 10pm, bar 1am.
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Best of Scotland Guide
Best of Scotland Guide Homepage | Best of Scotland Guide Index of Pages
Welcome to our Best of Scotland Guide 2008 which lists everything that we think is the best in Scotland. It is a bit of a work in progress and has a naughty habit of changing as we discover and rediscover new and old places. Some join and some depart - a bit like life really.
As the guide has grown rather larger than we expected, we have divided our guide into different sections (which are listed here on the Best of Scotland Guide Index page.)
Any thoughts or suggestions: please email to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.
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